Bernie is tired - she sleeps – Sam shops -
Brian and I wander the blue line of the walking map.
Towards the centre of the old
city - the state of the pavement and the atmosphere of the street gradually
improves from acceptable to delightful - the pavements become smoother with
missing paving stone clusters becoming less frequent and less extensive.
Buildings become increasing
impressive - more and more cafes - a cafe culture obvious.
We past tributes to Pushkin and
pass the Philharmonic Hall where the Smith‘s and the Milliken’s will enjoy a
violin recital tonight.
We encounter the start of the Tour de
Ribas/Odessa Grand Prix - tall - tall elegant girls present trophies to short
wirey men.
Past rose garden and fountain - I am
surprised - this is all so unexpected - I think of fat bellied Eugene - I wonder
why he never chose to mention any of this! - this could be any of the famous
European cities!
Along the tree lined promenade
that looks out over the new port area.
We arrive at the famous steps
of Odessa - no sign of spies escaping capture by propelling their vehicles down
the stairs - no sign of gunshot or explosion - alas my memories must have been
created by the magicians of the silver screen.
We pass over the mother-in-law’s
bridge – look over at the “lover’s bridge” - look out over the bay.
Photograph the symbols of
eternal love removed from the bridge to ensure that it remains capable of
carrying the lovers of future years.
Past yet another impressive building
Pass 240Z and stop for coffee
on a street corner to watch the world go by.
Into the central park - alive
with people - it is Sunday - tots dance - young girls sing - young girls belly
dance - everyone relaxed - everyone happy.
Past street guard station and
back to the hotel.
Sleep away the afternoon before it is time
for a visit to Opera – never been before – no idea what to expect – we have our
in-depth knowledge of this fine art in common with a number of our fellow travelers
– scheduled for 3 hours 40 minutes with three intermissions – “don’t think I
will last past the first” says one!
We meet the fellow travelers in the foyer
of the grand opera house – one of the best in Europe says the guide and their guidebooks!
– a legacy of the Tolstoy family – “stay where you are” instructs Knud.
Knud and Brian head to acquire the
pre-booked tickets – they are sent to the back of the queue – they work their
way forward – they eventually reach the window – they attempt to interact with
the Russian speaking middle-aged matron charged with the responsibility of providing
appropriate and courteous service to artistically inclined patrons of the august
house – she is in a mood that is clearly not conducive to provision of such services
– Knud seeks his pre-book but unpaid tickets – she bellows “today” – “no” – “no”
– “today” – Knud mutters and mutters some more!
He persists as only Knud can persist! – the
rest of travelers gather in the crowded ticket hall to watch the interaction - eventually she is worn down – the only way she
is going to rid herself of this pesky Dane is to somehow allocate him tickets –
the tickets are produced! – she holds them tightly in her hand and indicates
the cost – Knud calls in Brian’s credit card – the effect is to further enrage
the face bellowing from behind the glass – “no” – ‘no”.
Knud fumbles for cash from his pocket – he
calls to Brian – “give me all your money” – Brian fumbles – the travelers respond
to the call for cash – suddenly there are bundles of Hryvnia being flashed - Christine
joins the party – she opens her bag to contribute to the flurry of money –
Suddenly there is a high-pitched squeal of
a volume that would do justice to any diva that has ever graced the stage of
this house! – “he had his hand in my bag” she says – Chris has already
responded and placed a vice like grip on the arm of the accoustee! – the squeal
attracts the attention of security.
The accoustee is detained – a short, thin,
middle aged man of roma appearance – he is quiet – he seems resigned to his
fate – he stands there – one coat sleeve hanging loose in the manner of an
amputee’s dress – the arm used for acquisition of ill-gotten gains tucked out
of sight. – “security calls the police – “he didn’t get anything” says Christine
– “do you want to press charges?” – “no!” - she once again looks down at her bag and gives
the zipper an additional closing tug!
Into the theatre – it is worthy of its
reputation! – majestic! – we reach our seats – in the front rows! – Knud has
done well!
The stage curtains drawn -the orchestra plays
the opening tune – gee that is familiar! – Lyn smiles “the Geelong theme song”
says she!
The opera – Carmen – Kapmeh! – the stage
full of performers – Bernie counts them – 70 on the stage in the one scene –
bright – bright costumes – simple effective sets – wonderful dancers – great singers
– the first intermission comes and goes – no sign of the travelers wanting to
leave – the second and third intermissions follow and again the travelers remain
– they love the show – I love the show – we all love the show!
It is 11:00 at night yet Bernie and I feel
perfectly safe walking alone back to our hotel on the edge of the old city – we
stop at the Italian restaurant opposite – we strike up a conversion with a Dane
and his Russian wife – “we love Odessa” they say.
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