A second ride through the Delta - 28th May

Another day of riding in the Delta for most – a day of cruising the aquatic byways for the others – the flotilla has been dismantled – the small boat and bike barge isolated from the rest and charged with carriage duties for both rider and bird watcher.

The little boat deposits the riders and their steeds on the northern bank of the Danube’s central channel – they will ride another 20 kilometres along roads of a quality that could be described as dubious – in fact if one was just slightly prone to exaggeration one would describe the path as consisting of an earthen levy bank topped with a surface that was reinforced against wear and tear with the sharpest and most voluminous of all the stone aggregates that have ever applied to a track surface – not quite as bad as yesterday says one – the track takes them along the and through the reed lands of the Delta to the Romanian hamlet of Rosseti – the need for concentration in the face of the enemy that lay awaiting them on the track surface and which, at the best, caused physical annoyance to wrist, arm, shoulder, upper body, legs and the bodily surface between human and saddle and at worst caused a rapid deflation of the bicycle tire, tended to inhibit the riders ability to enjoy the natural environment through which they progressed.

On the other hand the weaklings amongst us that decided that riding on surfaces that resembled those of yesterday was not something that appealed to them and who therefore chose to remain on the small boat as it made it way in delightful sunshine and pleasant temperatures along narrow, narrow, waterways through the magnificent reed-lands – brackish, smooth and surprising clear water – the wind and the play of light causing the narrow , reed and sometimes tree lined channel in front of the little boat to appear as it was a roadway that gently rose and fell through the landscape – waterlilies with yellow flower – water lily with white flowers – floating reed clumps supporting ferns -  frogs sitting on waterlily leaves – the occasional snake attempting the cross the channel before either being run over by the boat or lifted from the water to service the nutrition needs of some aerial hunter – the occasional snake being displayed with some pride by an Ibis - purple Heron rising from the reeds – golden heron – geese – duck – hooded crow – common tern – cuckoo – cormorant – past keeps – “amazing – amazing – wonderful – wonderful” say the boat people.

The boat stops - The travellers greeted by a pleasant local in a Romanian vehicular transport that could have been specifically imported from the Australian film set of Mad Max – devoid of engine cover – body fabricated in the thatched covered outbuilding of a local establishment – an engine and gearbox that had seen duty in some form of communist agricultural apparatus – tyres that were so slick that they could appropriately be used to achieve maximum adhesion on perfectly smooth bituminous surfaces – the boat riders are transported a decade of kilometres to meet the riders at the driver’s home – he has provided a convenience and honey tasting for his visitors.

As we head towards his home I am puzzled – he departs the main stone paved road in favour of the adjacent sandy track for almost the entire trip – his fierce determination to avoid the main road where ever possible caused me to wonder if indeed it was some form of rural Romanian toll road!

The now reunited group join Mad Max on an excursion to the nearby environmentally significant forest  – bands of dune and bands of forest – a strictly controlled Romanian environmental masterpiece – has Fraser Island feel! – as we travel to and from the forest we pass school groups and tourist groups all visiting the forest.

The bumpy excursion in the Mad max vehicle completed, the travellers finish their Romanian sandwiches – try the honey – farewell the local -waver the Romanian neighbour as she slowly and methodically wields weeding rake across her generous vegetable garden -  the bike riders depart for their ride along the afore-mused toll way to the boat – the boat riders will take the Max Mad vehicle back to the small boat.

Immediately the driver departs the main road in favour of the parallel sandy track – he follows the parallel goat tracks for eight of the 10 kilometres back to the boat – he displays an un-natural fear of the main stone paved road that continues to puzzle me – suddenly the availability of acceptable alternatives to the main road reaches zero – he turns onto the main road – 50 metres – an almighty bang! – the bald tyres so effective at achieving grip on the bituminous surfaces succumb to the sharp stones of the track pavement – “now I understand” thinks I. – we farewell Mad Max and mount shank’s pony for the remaining two kilometres the boat – the riders show little sympathy for the plight of their fellow travellers choosing to believe that their forced exercise was just reward for their vociferous description of the wonders of their morning boat trip through the reed-lands.

The small boat now carrying the full contingent of travellers and towing the bike barge heads off along narrow waterways with nature similar to those of its morning transit towards the mother ship moored in the main channel – the bike riders get to experience the wonders that their fellow travellers had enjoyed while the rider had battled the stony surface of the bike route.

The riders like their boat riding peers experience water snake – crow – egret – heron – a delightful environment!

The accommodation barge is reached – glorious evening – glorious meal – glorious wine – the problems of the world discussed if not resolved!