To Rome and the Catacombs - 5th June

4:15am – we struggle to keep our eyes open and we live our cases towards reception and our meeting with the representative of Odessa Transfers for our ride to the airport.

Oh no! – that is not the clean cut Ruslan we have been told to expect – it is fat bellied Eugene!

I suspect that in reality he is Alex  and that Odessa transfers is his own operation – he tells us it is his wife's birthday and he had to get up early to go to the flower market to buy her flowers so he had volunteered to let Ruslan sleep in.

“Who gets up at 4:00am to buy flowers” thinks I.

We load the bags – I assume Bernie will occupy the front seat with the driver as is her normal want – not with fast-bellied Eugene driving! – she makes it known in no uncertain terms that I will occupy the front seat!

We head off – again Eugene or Alex or  Ruslan or whatever his name really is, launches into his speil – famous street for prostitute says he – go down there it is cheaper – look just there – pull up there – out on your hazard lights for a few seconds – someone will turn up to sell you drugs – look up there says he – that is the police station says he – they are all corrupt says he.

As we progress to the airport Eugene receives phone calls - animated conversations follow - who on earth receives multiple calls at 4:30 in the morning - Bernie can think only of a pimp! 

The airport is reached and Eugene is off – the terminal a relic of the communist era – hardly fiting of a city of 1 million.

If the Odessa Airport is from late 50s, then the Security staff are from the mid 30s – "take off your belt!" – demands the scanner belt operator! - “it is plastic and it is sown to the trousers” says I – “take off belt! – “it is sown  to the trousers” – “take off belt!” – a rip and a tear and the belt comes off – the plastic buckle flys through the air never to be seen again! – a silent prayer that the trousers will remain at full mast for the remainder of the trip to Rome!

“Go through scanner!” Says the guard – “pacemaker” says l – “ you go through!” – he barks.

 We are on our way just a little rattled – the flight on Ukrainian air good! – the service? – a delight – memories of the security man fade!

We change over in Kiev – unremarkable! – the flight transition smooth - off to Rome – all on time!

Things go to plan - a driver is waiting - we are at the Trevi Suite in no time - the reception staffed by pleasant people with excellent English - the room all that one can expect of budget accommodation in Rome and indeed a lot more - the decor modern and stylish even if the complex that houses it is old - old - old - even if its lift terrorises anyone who chooses to avail themselves of its services!

We rest awhile - then we head to the Piazza Barberini just a few minutes away for our catacombs tour - we meet Valerio - we join his party of 20 Americans on the tour - the Chapel of Bones - no photos please! - then a surprise - we are loaded in a bus to go to one of the Catacombs (no photos please) on the outskirts of the old city - in our ignorance we assumed they were nearby - at least that lesson is something we did learn from the tour!   

The bus travels a while - we are then all disgorged - handed over to another guide - taken through the Catacombs beneath the Church of Saint Sebastian - I leave uninspired by the experience - Bernie leaves impressed and satisfied!

 Back into the bus - I would have thought that it would have been logical for the bus to deposit us at the place it picked us up from - such logic seems not to apply to the roman! - We are left with a 30 minute walk home - Bernie photographs.

Then she dines in a trattoria immediately under our window - Jewish twice fried artichoke!